Ritual
Lighting the sun: the solstice on the Cerro de la Estrella
Before dawn on 21 December, fire, copal and dance to welcome the light on the hill of the New Fire.
It is still night when the fire begins to grow. Around it, on the ground, lie marigold flowers, fruit, bread and incense burners. Below, Mexico City is still lit up, millions of lights that slowly go out against the blue of dawn.
For the Mexica, the Cerro de la Estrella was a central place: the New Fire was lit there every 52 years, when a cycle ended and the return of the sun had to be ensured. Today, every winter solstice, groups of dancers and families climb up to welcome the shortest day of the year.
The light comes in from the side
When the sun appears between the volcanoes, the scene changes completely: the copal smoke turns golden, silhouettes stand out against the sky and the banners glow against the light. It lasts only a few minutes, and almost everything is decided in them.
To photograph it you have to arrive at night, know the place and know where not to get in the way. The dance is an offering, and whoever photographs it is a guest.
